larger job, the manufacture of a joiner's bench-if he does not already posse

y. The length of 5 feet, width of 2 feet (exclusive of the back E), and height of 2 feet 7-1/2 inches will be found a good average. If th

and the braces DD on the front are "halved" where they overlap the leg

4.-Front elevation

ce] bench screw, 1s. 6d.; nails and screws, 1s.; or 15s. in all. It is advisable to show

uld remark that the boards used should be of the widths and lengths given; while as regards thickness the figures must be taken as nominal, as in practice the saw cut i

truc

of the 6 by 1 inch wood, squaring the ends carefully. Two of the legs are laid on the floor, one end against the wall or a batten nailed to the floor and arrang

s the end at an angle of 45 degrees. Cut along these lines, and lay one of the edges just cut up against C, and flush with the outer edge of L1 (Fig. 5). Tack the strut on temporarily to both le

the inside of the mark, So that its cut is included in the 3/8 inch, and a cross cut made to detach the piece and leave a shoulder. The strut is "offered" again to the legs, and a mark is drawn across the bottom parallel to the ends or the legs for the final saw cut. Nail on the strut, pressing the legs well up

. 5.-End elevation

e ends of the bearer F, which performs the important function of preventing any bending of the top planks. Lay the boards together, top edges and ends level, an

eces, on the inside, to show where the legs are to be. Bore holes i

n. A nail driven part way in through one of the screw holes, and a batten tacked diagonally on the DD lines, will hold a leg in

ff, can now be marked off and cut exactly down the mid

in the exact parallelism of B with G, and the ends be as square as y

front edge, 1 foot apart. Arrange Al with its front edge perfectly flush with the face of B, and tack it in place by nails driven through a couple of screw holes,

ouple of screws. All screws in the top of the bench are countersunk 1/8 inch below the surface. Screw the ledge E, of 4 b

6.-Perspective vie

guide end on the centre line of V. This hole must be made quite squarely to enable the screw to work freely. If a 2-inch bit is not available, mark out a 2-inch ring and bore a number of small holes, which can afterwards be joined by a pad-saw; and finish, the hole thus formed with a half-round rasp. The threaded block for the screw is attached to the inner side of H in the angle formed by the leg

ht catch and fray the clothes, and boring the 3/4-inch holes

board planed. Many carpenters employ this very simple expedient; others, again, prefer a square piece of wood sliding stiffly through a hole in A1 and provided on top with a fragment of

trestle components-to save trouble. The use of screws entails very little extra bother, and gives you a benc