ond the capacity of the average young amateur; but little skill is needed to manufacture a very fairly efficient substitute for

rung (see Fig. 10), so that the sides shall take the weight directly, and the nails only have to keep the rungs firmly in position. The objection to notching-in is that it reduces the strength of the ladder, which is of course only that of the w

House ladder and detail

inches (actual) in section and free from knots, especially at the edges, will be sufficiently strong to carry all reasonable weights without danger of collapse. But be sure to get

to centre. The distance may be increased to a

TRUC

laned quite smooth and rounded off slightly at the corners to make handling comfortable. Before marking them

1/2 inches from the string, measuring from the outside. Tack on cross pieces to prevent shifting, and then, starting from the bottom, make a mark every 10 inches on the outside corners

Apply the template to both faces of the side in turn, with its corner A at the line below the rung, and DE flush with the upper corner. When all the notches have been marked cut down the AC li

s which it makes with the sides. Mark the positions of the nail holes. Cut off the rung at the cross lines; drill the four nail holes on the skew, as shown in Fig. 10; and round off all the corners. The other

brush afterwards. When the paint has dried, lay the sides out as before, and nail on the rungs with 3-inch nails. To counteract an

of the rungs, and apply a

the sides and flush, but at the sacrifice either of strength or lightness, unless narrow rungs of a

section of the sides may safely be reduced to 2-3